There’s been a murder ‘doon the watter’...

Death may not be a huge tourist draw but a crime fiction festival is reviving the fortunes of Rothesay and Bute, as Jackie Mitchell discovers

For affluent Glaswegians of the 1800s and early 1900s, the ultimate in holiday panache wasn’t the Orient Express or a grand tour to the cities and beaches of Europe. They found their adventure much closer to home – on the Isle of Bute.

Back in the day, it teemed with everyday tourists in the Glasgow Fair Fortnight, and was beloved by Victorian merchants from the city as their second home idyll all year round.

For those lucky enough to afford it, the grand Glenburn Hotel, originally a hydropathic spa retreat, on an elevated position just outside the main town and ferry port of Rothesay – was the epitome of elegance. With views from the front over the Firth of Clyde and up Loch Striven and surrounded by woodland to the rear, to this day the hotel still retains an air of vintage grandeur; externally, at least, it is little changed since the late 1880s.

It’s perhaps fitting then that the organisers of the annual crime fiction festival, Bute Noir, have chosen the hotel as this year’s single setting for their three-day literary event – Agatha Christie would have felt very much at home!

While Bute Noir draws in some pretty big name-talent –McDermid, Brookmyre, Billingham and Rankin have all been stars in the past – it equally supports novice novelists and aspiring writers, with a diverse range of talks and workshops, and the chance to meet and mingle with those established names. The festival is organised by journalist turned author CS Robertson, otherwise known as Craig, and Karen Latto from the island’s independent bookshop, Print Point, and has put Bute on the literary festival map, right up there with Harrogate, Hay Festival, Aye Write, and Bloody Scotland.

Craig says: “I’ve had a long association with Bute since regularly holidaying in Rothesay as a child many summers ago. But it was a conversation after doing a book event in Rothesay Library in 2015 that changed everything. Karen somehow convinced me to organise a crime fiction book festival there. I’m still not sure how she did it.

“It was a crazy idea but like the best crazy ideas, it worked. We’ve built Bute Noir up year on year, programming more authors, attracting more visitors and locals, moving to ever bigger venues and filling them.

“From the first year when I convinced 12 author pals to make the trip, we now have major publishers pitching their big names to us, and writers coming from across the world.

“It’s a long road to Rothesay from London – or Iceland, Australia, Sweden and the USA – but authors make that trip because they’ve heard that it’s a fun weekend in a beautiful location with friendly, welcoming, book-buying crowds.”

The island, is of course, more than just a festival venue, although the music festival, dance festival, boat race, tractor run, cycle festival, triathlon, arts trail and Highland Games are also well worth blocking off time in your calendar for.

It’s still a beloved day trip destination; there are twin Calmac ferry routes from the mainland – the half-hour Wemyss Bay route, which is on a direct train link to Glasgow, and the ten-minute Colintraive route in the north of the island, which brings people in from Argyll. There’s also a small private airstrip, on the west of the island which has glorious views to Arran and Kintyre. Paddlesteamer The Waverley makes regular trips here.

Once on the island, Rothesay town centre may be faintly jaded and faded from its Victorian heyday, but has an eclectic mix of shops and restaurants. For a small island – just 15 miles long – it’s well served; choose from live music, a honky-tonk jive bar, classic fish and chips, or brunch by the beach.

Activity wise, there’s seal spotting at Scalpsie Bay, stunning views from the top of Canada Hill, the West Island Way walking route, bike hire, surfing, stand up paddle boarding and fishing trips. Don’t miss out on the hairpin bend hill climb up the Serpentine – it’s worth it for the experience, if not for the grey hairs it will give you!

The jewel in the crown of the island is Mount Stuart House, one of the finest buildings in Scotland, with stunning gardens and extensive grounds. The one-time family home turned visitor attraction offers a glimpse into an affluent past, and was in its day a byword for innovation.

Mount Stuart was the first house in the country to have electricity, central heating, a phone and its own indoor heated swimming pool. With stunning ceilings, marble pillars, carved interiors and art, a visit is a must.

Don’t miss out on a selection of beaches – easily accessible by car, bike or the regular bus service – including Ascog, Ettrick Bay and Kilchattan.

If you can, fit in a visit to Bute Yard, the island’s latest space for pop-up events, markets, gigs and gin tasting. It’s within a few metres of 13th-Century Rothesay Castle, managed by Historic Environment Scotland.

The Victorian loos by the harbour are well worth spending a penny to admire, while the visitor centre, right next to the town’s putting greens, is an excellent spot to calibrate before continuing your explorations.

Craig adds: “I hope and believe that we’re doing our bit to help re-establish Bute as a destination resort. It will likely never return to the “doon the watter” heyday but it has so much to offer visitors and we’re doing what we can to put it back on the map.

“On the festival weekend, there isn’t a spare hotel or B&B bed to be had, and that’s something we’re proud of.”

This year’s Bute Noir runs from August 2-4, and tickets are on sale now.