Irvine Welsh loves mezcal: With the arrival of Paloma, has Leith gone totally Mexican?

Paloma, Leith

Irvine Welsh once posted on social media that the only spirit he drinks is mezcal - a smoky-tasting tipple that’s derived from agave.

He added that the resulting hangover is ‘minimal’.

Perhaps this statement is what inspired the current mini Mexican wave in Leith.

Fried chicken tacos

Until now, that culinary genre hasn’t had much of a presence in this part of town. Suddenly, there’s a triple whammy.

We have what might be Scotland’s first agaveria, Chancho, which has been opened on Bernard Street by the people behind the excellent Bread Street bar, Hey Palu.

There’s the Chorrito Sauce Co at the bottom of The Walk, and, now, the team behind Royal Mile venue, The Black Grape, has settled on this neighborhood for their first taco spot, Paloma.

You’ll find this place on the corner formerly occupied by Borough, and you can’t miss it.

Feta tostada

Look out for the pistachio and pink painted frontage, with ‘Tacos Tacos Tacos’ written outside. I wonder what they sell? I know. Tacos.

In common with The Black Grape, where cocktails are the order of the day, there are some tempting-sounding tequila-based drinks.

I try the salted grapefruit paloma (£8.95), which is seltzer-y and summery. The more I drink, the more I think we should really be doing this al-fresco. This is Mexico’s answer to the Aperol spritz.

My plus one has the picante Margarita (£9), with ingredients including Coriander and Chilli Rooster Rojo Blanco Tequila, agave and lime, and a red chilli pepper popped into the top, like a spicy buoy (for my spicy boy).

He’s enjoying it so much that he tells the owner, Murray Ainslie, who is serving us, that it’s the best he’s ever had. Indeed, it has teeth, like Begbie, but is also zingy, like Diane.

As tequila makes you go a bit rock ‘n’ roll, we order a third drink to share.

The Pancho’s Margarita 2.0 (£9.50) could be a nod to Pancho Villas, as The Black Grape took over that stalwart Mexican restaurant’s old premises. It is ironic that the Royal Mile property’s newer occupants, presumably possessed by sizzing fajitas of bygone days, have opened a taco joint.

Anyway, this drinkie is a softer and sweeter take on the spicy or the classic, with Chamomile Rooster Rojo Tequila, lime and pineapple, all served in a glass that’s dusted with bee pollen.

Food next. We go for a couple of their Sharers to start.

Both are magnificent. There’s a seven-inch-single-sized crispy tostada (£9) that’s iced with frothy whipped feta and topped by pink pickled onions, herb oil, pineapple chunks and a tweezer-ing of micro herbs. We use our fingers, breaking off shards and scooping up the cheese-y drift.

We also order the monkfish and morcilla skewers (£10.50), which remind me of yakitori, as the meaty chunks of fish are threaded onto metal sticks and have an intense smoky flavour. The morcilla element is in little chunks on the side, along with green pepper heavy piperade and a bright red pepper gel.

There are six Tacos to choose from, with options including pork belly carnitas or smoky ancho ribs.

We go for the fried chicken option, and it’s a beauty.

The pair of tacos are sweet and corny, with four large dollops of poultry, each of which is slathered in a glossy red spicy sauce. There’s also a few blobs of garlicky sour cream, chopped coriander and red cabbage for texture. We both end up with ‘taches in the colours of the Mexican flag.

To continue the clucking theme, we also try the hen of the woods (£8.50) version. It features this fungi, except tempura battered and fried, so it’s pleasingly chewy and crisp round the edges, along with a few pale pickled shimeji mushrooms and black beans, to complete the undergrowth-y trio of fillings.

The Black Grape have obviously applied their small plate sensibilities to tacos here, and it really works.

I want to come back to try the others.

However, don’t get hyped about potential churros. They’re not quite there yet, but they will be adding puddings to the menu soon.

In lieu of those, we head to The Pastry Section at 143 Great Junction Street, and look out for something with dulce de leche in it. I was fantasising about one of their giant Swiss rolls, but we should have got there earlier, as this incredible bakery sells out incredibly fast.

There are just two cakes left. We sat in with the malty tasting chocolate, almond and raspberry gateau (£5) and a nanaimo bar (£4.50).

Cakes and tequila make you happy. So do Tacos Tacos Tacos.

50-54 Henderson Street

Leith

Edinburgh

www.palomatacos.co.uk